Next the feed dogs, thread clearance mechanism, and the hook race is removed.īut wait… If you look at the picture above, you will see the thread clearance mechanism. This starts with the assembly in the sewing machine head. I have decided to disassemble the machine before I attempt to address the cosmetic condition. It’s got it’s share of dirt, but the potential shines through. Starting the restoration, I like to document the process for a before and after comparison. Properly tuned, this machine will produce a straight stitch that will rival any machine made today… or then.
Despite all of the rocking and oscillating parts that comprise the drive mechanism, turning the balance wheel by hand is effortless and smooth… amazing. The action of these machines is something you need to feel to appreciate. Occasionally, a spring will need to be replaced on the tension take-up or rge spring on a bobbin winder might wear out, but these parts are still available and will be for a long time to come. These machines are engineered with adjustment for all parts that may wear. There are really no parts that should ever need replacement. All it needs is lubrication and occasional cleaning to keep the machine sewing smoothly. It amazes me that the precision of machining is so high. The build quality of this vintage 66 is second to none. It seems to me the machine was made to last forever. I love restoring machines of this vintage because their construction is made with thick heavy parts that in my opinion are over built. I think that these “lack of features” has a benefit in focusing the user on the effect of making adjustments, rather than relying on a number on a dial… it provides a natural and “infinite” adjustment range. Like the stitch length, without relying on a number on a dial, you turn it until the tension is perfect. The tension dial is also a very simple affair, again there are no numbers to rely on. Folks locked the stitch by holding the fabric at the end of a seam to overcome the feed dogs, or lifted the foot, backed the fabric up, and sewed over the stitch to the end. You turn the dial until the stitch “looks right” for your project. I actually like this, it relieves our dependence on a “number”. There is no indicator to index a stitch length. This vintage model 66 is a very simple machine. I will balance this out by removing any stress on the sewing mechanisms, these will be completely disassembled and restored to like new condition. Still, this machine is in very good condition for it’s age, and I will focus on bringing it to it’s best without putting any stress on the decals. This will require applying multiple layers of shellac to stabilize the finish for long lasting durability. I will not attempt any aggressive polishing on the finish for fear of harming the decals.
The gold decal loss will be corrected where the detail is not so fine that it is impractical for me to fix it. Bear in mind, I always want to keep the machine original as possible so I will focus on polishing these parts rather than replacing them. I suspect that with sufficient time on the polishing wheel, the appropriate patina can be restored. The machine has some nickel loss on the needle plate and the cover and needle clamp screws, and the balance wheel rim has dulled with age. I will need to “upgrade” the machine with a motor to make it more convenient to use by today’s standards. I suspect that this machine spent it’s entire life as a treadle machine. When the restoration is completed, it is going to look great and sew like new.
The machine will be treated to a new layer of shellac to stabilize and protect the decals from any additional wear. Because my goal is to always keep the original finish intact to the greatest extent possible, I will touch up the decals were practical. Due to it’s age alone, the machine is due for a total restoration. This machine shows some wear, but for 95 years old, the decals are in very good condition, They look a little bit smudgy on the main bed decals, but the pattern is intact and the colors are still very well maintained. This is not surprising since the last red eye’s were made 95 years ago. Although I see many red eye decals, many have significant wear on the leading edge, sewing arm, and on the bed. There is a lot of detail in the decals on the bed, and decal loss is very noticeable. If you look at the closely at decorative and complex colorful decals, you will see what I mean. I’ve been looking to do one of these for a while, but I needed a machine that had decent decals. This restoration is for a Singer 66 Red Eye.
0 kommentar(er)
